1. Ergothioneine Overview
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Ergothioneine (EGT) is a natural amino acid with potent antioxidant activity. It is a water-soluble cosmetic raw material; it has good light and heat stability, and is not easily decomposed by oxidation. Therefore, ergothioneine is easy to be compatible with other active materials in cosmetics formulas. Moreover, ergothioneine is non-toxic in epidermal cells, so it will not produce any irritation when used topically with safety and effectiveness. Ergothioneine is a natural ultraviolet protective agent, which can block the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, and play a role in sun protection. It can also repair damaged collagen and elastic fibers. Ergothioneine can also effectively remove high-concentration free radicals in the human body, whiten the skin, and delay skin aging. Studies have shown that when ergothioneine is used together with other antioxidants, it has a good synergistic whitening and anti-aging effect.
| Product Name | CAS Number | INCI Name | |
| Ergothioneine | 497-30-3 | ERGOTHIONEINE | |
| Molecular Weight | Molecular Formula | Molecular Structure | |
| 229.3g/mol | C9H15N3O2S |
 |
|
| Product ID | Specification | Minimal Package | Minimal Order Quantity |
| BFSTAR220101 | 99% | 10g | 10g |
2. Ergothioneine Source
In 1909, ergothioneine was first discovered in Claviceps purpurea. Later, it was also found in animals’ organ. At present, there are three main sources of ergothioneine. They are chemical synthesis, biosynthesis, and animal and plant extraction. Microorganisms such as spirulina, ascomycetes, mycobacteria, and basidiomycetes can bio-synthesize ergothioneine. At the same time, ergothioine is also present in the fruiting bodies of edible fungi, such as bisporus, oyster mushroom. Nowadays, biosynthesis is mostly used for large-scale production of ergothioneine. Ergothioneine produced by this method has high purity and few impurities.
3. Ergothioneine Manufacturer Specifications
| Product Name | Specification | Color |
| Ergothioneine | 99% | White powder |
| Items | Specification |
| Purity | ≥99% HPLC |
| Appearance | White to off-white powder |
| Physical Characteristics | |
| Loss in drying | ≤3.0% |
| Particle size | 98% pass 100 mesh |
| Heavy Metals | |
| Pb | ≤10ppm |
| As | ≤2ppm |
| Hg | ≤1ppm |
| Cd | ≤5ppm |
| Microbiological Tests | |
| Total plate count | ≤100cfu/g |
| Yeast & mold | ≤50cfu/g |
| Pseudomonas aeruginosa | Not detected |
| Staphylococcus aureus | Not detected |
| Heat-resistant escherichia coli | Not detected |
4. Ergothioneine Benefits
- Anti-oxidation
Ergothioneine has anti-oxidation ability. Under the condition of continuous ultraviolet irradiation for 18 hours, 70% of the cells are still reductive, because of ergothioneine’s exist. Ergothioneine inhibits lipid per-oxidation, prevents the production of active oxides, and reduces the apoptosis of irradiated cells. Thereby it can prevent skin aging and effectively improve fine lines and wrinkles.
A study use emulsion containing 2.0% EGT once a day for 4 weeks. As a result, the participant’s skin wrinkles reduce significantly, and the skin becomes more bright. Show as following picture.
Another study compares the ability scavenging free radicals among EGT, coenzyme Q10, and idebenone. It indicates that EGT’s antioxidant activity is better than that of coenzyme Q10 or idebenone. Ergothioneine is relatively more effective in removing free radicals and protecting cells from UV inducing of ROS.
- Sun Protection
In the ultraviolet absorption range, ergothioneine has an absorption wavelength similar to that of DNA, with a molar extinction coefficient of 1.4*104 M-1 cm-1, λmax257. It can decrease the formation of reactive oxygen species and protect skin cells from UV-radiation damage. Therefore, ergothioneine can be used as a physiological filter of ultraviolet rays; it can avoid the damage caused by ultraviolet rays to the skin. In a word, ergothioneine is a very effective sunscreen ingredient.
5. Pharmacological Studies of Ergothioneinein Relation to Cosmetics
| Test Items | Concentration | Result |
| Elimination of free radical singlet oxygen | Elimination rate: 2.3×107/mL-1 | |
| Elimination of hydroxyl radicals | Elimination rate: 1.2×1010/mL-1 | |
| Elimination of free radical DPPH | IC50 : 53μg/mL | |
| Inhibition of keratinocyte apoptosis under high concentration of ozone | 1mmol/L | Inhibition rate: 48.6% |
| Inhibition of fibroblast apoptosis under UVB irradiation | 1mmol/L | Inhibition rate: 70% |
| Inhibition of tyrosinase activity | 0.1% | Inhibition rate: 48% |
| Inhibition of glycosylation of skin proteins | 5mmol/L | Inhibition rate: 42.9% |
| Inhibition of lipase activity | IC50: 0.221mg/mL | |
| Inhibition of 5α-reductase activity | IC50: 2.32mg/mL |
6. Ergothioneine Application and Reference Dosage
Ergothioneine is mainly used in whitening skin care products, such as serum, facial mask, emulsion, toner, essence, cream, etc.
| Product | Reference Dosage |
| Ergothioneine | 0.01%-3.0% |
In different functional cosmetics, Ergothioneine has different dosage.
| Items | Reference Dosage |
| Cream | 0.01-1.0% |
| Emulsion | 0.01-2.0% |
| Toner | 0.01-3.0% |
Ergothioneine application cases in major cosmetic brands in the world
| Country | Brand | Product |
| Switzerland | La Prairie | Skin Caviar Essence In Lotion |
| Spain | ISDIN | Daily Antioxidant Serum |
| USA | Origins | Mega-Mushroom Relief & Resilience Soothing Treatment Lotion |
| Estee Lauder |
Global Anti-Aging Creme
Radiant Vitality 2-In-1foam Cleanser Intense Reset Concentrate |
|
| Elizabeth Arden | Prevage Anti-Aging Daily Serum 2.0 | |
| Clinique | Turnaround Revitalizing Lotion | |
| China | Proya |
Elastic Brightening Youth Essence
Elastic Brightening Youth Activating Eye Cream |
| UMOUA | Liposome Peptide Tech Eye Cream | |
| HBN | Ergothionein Brightening Essence |
7. Ergothioneine Reference Formula
Toner
| Ingredient | Content (%) | Ingredient | Content (%) |
| Ergothioneine | 0.02 | Xanthan Gum | 0.1 |
| Trehalose | 1.0 | Glycerin | 8.0 |
| Propylene Glycol | 7.0 | Water-Soluble Lanolin | 3.0 |
| Fragrance | 0.1 | Hydrogenated Castor Oil | 1.0 |
| Preservative | 0.2 | Deionized Water | Add To 100 |
Emulsion
| Ingredient | Content (%) | Ingredient | Content (%) |
| Ergothioneine | 0.1 | Brij-72 | 1.2 |
| Brij-721 | 1.5 | Hexyldecyloctadecanol | 0.5 |
| Simethicone | 3.0 | Hydrogenated Castor Oil | 3.5 |
| Octyl/Decyl Triglyceride | 4.0 | White Oil | 3.0 |
| BHT | 0.05 | Propylene Glycol | 6.0 |
| Glycerin | 8.0 | Carbomer 20 | 10.0 |
| Preservative | 0.2 | Fragrance | 0.2 |
| Na-OH | Q.s. | Water | Add to 100 |
8. Ergothioneine Safety
- CTFAhas recognized ERGOTHIONEINE as a raw material for cosmetics;
- The International Catalogue of Chinese Cosmetic Raw Materials Standardsin 2010 issued by ERGOTHIONEINE.
- On the Announcement of Name List of Cosmetics Raw Materialpublished by CFDA in 2021 both include ERGOTHIONEINE. There are no reports indicating that ERGOTHIONEINE is unsafe for external use.
9. Package and Storage
Package: 10g/bag, 100g/bag, 1kg/bag.
Storage: Stored in a cool dry place and away from direct sunlight and oxidizing agents.
